Ukuleles have been around since 1880, and though their use began to decline in the 1970s, these instruments have been gaining popularity again in recent years. This is likely due to the fact that they are smaller and easier to learn than their larger guitar cousins. What is more, baritone ukes produce the incomparable deep, rich sound attracting more and more learners all over the world.
Choosing a baritone ukulele depends on a few important features. One is which type you prefer. Acoustic ukuleles are most common, with hollow bodies and sound holes to capture the string vibrations for sound projection. Acoustic-electric models include built-in electronics that connect the ukulele to an amplifier, allowing you to plug in or play it acoustically, depending on the situation. The materials used can affect the sound, so they should also be considered. You may also want to see how much it weighs, especially if you plan to travel with it.
In order to help you decide on the best baritone ukulele for you, we spent hours searching manufacturer’s information, checking out product features, and reading hundreds of customer reviews. Then we chose the top models, created a comparison table, in-depth reviews, and even added a buying guide that details all of the features a quality baritone ukulele has to offer.
There are a few reasons you may want to choose a baritone ukulele over the other smaller options. The baritone has a sound that is lower and mellower than the other ukuleles can produce. It adds some warmth to the sound when playing with other ukulele types as well. In fact, a baritone sounds more like a classic nylon-stringed guitar, plus it tunes more like a guitar than any of the other three types. These features make it a good option for those who are considering learning to play guitar. The ukulele is easier to learn, with fewer strings, so you’ll be playing songs much faster, plus learning the basics you’ll need to know if you want to play guitar at some point in the future.
Acoustic vs. acoustic-electric
There are a number of woods used for making the bodies of ukuleles, each with its own benefits. Koa is from Hawaii, which is why it is most commonly used in the instruments from this area. It has a lovely grain pattern and gives the ukulele a warm sound. This wood is quite expensive though, so if you want the best cheap baritone ukulele, you’ll have to choose one that uses less costly materials.
For the neck material, the woods are chosen more for their strength than they are for their tone and how nicely they match the body of the ukulele. The necks are usually lighter and weaker than instruments like guitars since ukuleles usually use nylon strings. Even stronger materials like mahogany are made thinner, so stay away from steel strings, or high tensions could risk snapping the neck of your ukulele.
Another thing to look at is the strings. When you first buy a ukulele, you don’t know how long those strings have been on, so you may need to change them right away. Also, different strings create different sounds, plus have altering durability, so try out a few before deciding which ones are right for you.
First, tune the D string, or the top string on the ukulele. You can use a piano, a guitar tuner, or an app if you have one handy. If not, tune it by ear as best you can.
I realize this may be a generically generated “best” posting, but your section on tuning the Baritone is completely incorrect in case someone may want to change it. This section states: “First, tune the D string, or the top string on the ukulele. You can use a piano, a guitar tuner, or an app if you have one handy. If not, tune it by ear as best you can. Once you have the D string tuned, press on the fourth fret, then match the G string to it. When the G string is in tune, press the third fret, and use that tone to tune the B string. For the E string, use the fourth fret of the B string, holding it while you strum the last string and matching them as best you can. Source: https://primesound.org/best-baritone-ukulele”
In actuality, if you are tuning the strings against each other – it is the FIFTH fret of the D string that sounds a G for tuning the next string – not the FOURTH as stated. Next, it is the FOURTH fret of the G string that sounds a B for tuning the next string – not the THIRD, as stated. Finally, it is the FIFTH fret of the B string that sounds an E for tuning the E string – not the FOURTH fret as stated.
So, just in case anyone cares, or anyone wants to correct the misinformation in this article, there you go. THIS is why I always tell folks, “I read it on the internet so it must be true.” LOL